Before discussing the make-up applications for the many faces, we will first cover the basics of applying make-up.
The Face
To create the perfect picture, we must first start with a smooth canvas
where flaws, imperfections, and uneven skin tones have been concealed.
If the skin has dry flakes or a gritty texture, then an exfoliant should
be used prior to the normal skin care regime. (See “Enhancing your
Performance through Skin Care” for help on choosing the right regime.)
The “foundation” creates this smooth, even canvas. The foundation
should be the same color as the neck to avoid the appearance of a mask.
If the foundation is seen in the face’s pores, then the color is too light.
Apply a small amount of foundation to the eye lids as well, taking care
not to get any in the eyes. (The foundation enables the eye shadow
to last longer while also covering the variations of color normally seen
on the lid.) If there is a high amount of redness to be covered,
then a green tint cream can be applied prior to the foundation. However,
covering the green tint may require a thicker foundation. After the
foundation has been applied, then a concealer (a tad lighter than the foundation)
should be applied over areas such as under the eyes, under the nostrils,
and over the smile lines. Only a small amount is needed, such as
three dots under the eye, or laugh lines and puffiness may be enhanced.
Blend the concealer with the foundation to create a smooth transition between
the normal and lightened areas. Pat the entire face (minus the eyelids)
with a powder designed for your skin type and color to seal in the foundation
and to minimize the shine. Sweep a face brush downward over the face
to eliminate any excess powder. (If pancake foundation is used, then
powder is not required.)
The Eyes
Apply an eye shadow the same color as your skin tone to the complete
eye area. Apply additional colors as desired. Larger eyes can
utilize more color closer to the eyes while deep set and/or small eyes
require lighter shades closer to the eyes. Line the eye with a kohl
pencil. Cover the liner with an eye shadow of the same color to “set”
the liner while providing a softer, smoother appearance. Cake liners
are nice alternatives to pencils and don’t require a layer of shadow over
them. Complete details and illustrations on eye shadow and liner
applications will be provided in “Make-Up Applications for the Many Faces.”
Apply mascara first to the lower lash and then to the upper lash.
(If applied in reverse order, then it will be harder to clean up any smudges
of excess mascara. If a smudge does occur, a Q-tip will quickly clean
up a tiny area.) The mascara should be brown or brown/black for lighter-haired
people and black for dark-haired people. On stage, however, black
may be the preferred choice for all hair-types. The mascara should
be replaced about once every six weeks.
The Eyebrows
This is one of the most forgotten places. When shaping, make
sure the natural eyebrow shape is not lost. Over-plucking can lead
to abnormal hair growth patterns. Use a pencil to guide you when
determining the starting and ending points of the brow. The pencil
shall run from the nostril to the inner eye corner and again, from the
nostril to the outer eye corner. Any hairs beyond the boundaries
established by the pencil can be plucked. Color the brow with a brown
liner the same as the hair. To create a natural effect, make tiny
strokes as if drawing in each eye brow hair. Comb hairs upright.
(Even when make-up use is foregone, the eyebrows should still be combed
daily.)
The Cheeks
Blush can be swept on following the cheek bones. If the cheekbones
are not highly defined, then make a face fish to find the bones.
Start about half-way between the nose and the ear and brush upward with
a full blush brush. (Most of the brushes included in blush containers
are too small and may create a streaked appearance.) To create a
thinner face, apply the blush in a more vertical fashion. To create
a wider face, apply the blush in a more horizontal fashion. The blush’s
color should match the color scheme used on the eyes.
The Lips
Apply a lip conditioner if the lips are dry and/or flaky. Next,
line the lips with the same color as the intended lipstick. Fill
in the lips with the liner as well. The liner helps to seal in the
color while preventing the lipstick from bleeding off of the lips.
To create fuller lips, line the color outside the lips. To create
smaller lips, line the color inside the lips’ border. Then, apply
the lipstick. Blot with a tissue to ensure any excess has been removed.
(Otherwise, you’ll have to check for lipstick on the teeth.) Apply
gloss over the top if a glossy look is desired.
Face contouring will be discussed in “Make-Up Applications for the Many
Faces.”
Nadiyahs
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