Since each face is unique and beautiful, each face requires a modified approach when applying make-up to particular features.  (For a general guide to make-up applications, see “Make-Up Basics.”)  Here, we will address the eyes, nose, and overall facial structure:

Eyes
Deep Set Eye

The aim is to draw the eyes out.  To do this, work with lighter shades of eye shadow.  Start with a light base color, preferably the same color as your skin.  Apply all over the upper lid, from the lash line to the eyebrow.  Next, apply a slightly darker shade to the crease area.  [If the eyes are close set, then apply another darker shade to the outer corner and blend inward (as shown above).  Likewise, to bring the eyes together, apply a darker shade to the inner corner].  For extra pizzazz, apply a light – but – bright shade to the lid just above the iris.  Blend well so the changes between the shades are gradual.  Line only the corners of the eye with the dark eye liner pencil.  Apply an exactly matching shadow over the liner on the outer corner to soften the line and “set” the liner.  A white liner drawn in the lower inner lid will further expand the eye’s appearance.  Finally, apply mascara and an eye brow pencil to finish framing of the eye.

Normal Eye

Start with a light base color, preferably the same color as your skin.  Apply all over the upper lid, from the lash line to the eyebrow.  Next, apply a slightly darker shade to the crease area.  Then, apply an even darker shade just above the lash line.  [If the eyes are close set, then apply another darker shade to the outer corner and blend inward (as shown above).  To bring the eyes closer together, apply a darker shade to the inner corner instead].  Blend well so the changes between the shades are gradual.  Line the eye with the dark eye liner pencil from the iris to the outer corner.  Apply an exactly matching shadow over the liner on the outer corner to soften the line and “set” the liner.  Finally, apply mascara and an eye brow pencil to finish framing of the eye.

Large Eye

Since the eyes have already caught the attention, capture the opportunity and have fun with dark colors.  Start with a base light color.  Apply all over the upper lid, from the lash line to the eyebrow.  Next, apply a medium shade to the lid, from the lash line to the crease area.  Then, apply a darker shade just above the lash line up to the crease.  [If the eyes are close set, then apply another darker shade to the outer corner and blend inward (as shown above).  Conversely, to make the eyes appear closer, apply a darker shade to the inner corner.]  For extra pizzazz, apply one more layer of color.  Blend well so the change between each shade is gradual.  Line the entire eye with a dark eye liner pencil.  Apply an exactly matching shadow over the liner to soften the line and “set” the liner.  Finally, apply mascara and eye brow pencil to finish framing of the eye.

Other eye tips:
If the eye lid is short, then apply the shadow vertically.  If the eye lid is narrow, then apply the shadow horizontally.  If the eye lid is crêpey, then frosted eye shadow should be avoided.  If the eye lid’s crease is non-existent, then a crease can still be created.  Apply shadow as discussed with the deep set eyes.  Generally, if the eye lid area is fairly large, then more color can be applied.  On the other hand, if the eye lid area is fairly small, the amount of color applied is rather limited.

The Nose

Before

After

To create a narrow nose, apply a darker foundation, a bronzer, or a blush to the sides of the nose (as shown above).  Apply the lighter concealer down the bridge of the nose or a lighter face powder than that used on the rest of the face.  Also apply the darker foundation or bronzer to any bumps that want to be minimized.

The Face

Wide Face

Narrow Face

To create a narrow face, apply bronzing powder or blusher vertically to the sides of the forehead and along the back corners of the jaw line.  Apply the lighter concealer or dust a lighter powder to the middle of the chin.  To widen the face, apply the color horizontally to the forehead, jaw line, and chin.  As mentioned in “Make-Up Basics,” apply the blush to the cheekbone in a more vertical or horizontal fashion as well.

The Dance
Eyes -- For a dramatic evening look and/or for performances, use even darker shades and extend the liner outward.  If performing under lights, a liquid liner would be more advisable.  Also, apply a highlighter (a color lighter than the base color) to the eyebrow bone.  Avoid frosted highlighters if photographs will be taken.

Cheeks & Lips – Red will provide a more dramatic look.  If you are an autumn or spring, seek a tomato red.  If you are a winter or summer, seek a blue red.  See "Finding Your Best Colors" for more on colors.

Body – Dust the neck and other exposed areas with bronzing powder.  A shimmering powder applied to the shoulders and the chest will also add zest.  Keep in mind, however, that frosts will deflect light and that photography will notice the extra light variations.
 

*For this article, the crease area is the hollow area on the eye lid where the eye ball and the orbital bone meet.

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